Restaurant Review: All Star Sandwich Bar

BY MARTHA JEONG

When you’ve had your fill of Mt. Auburn sandwiches at Darwin’s or need a plan of escape from your daily visits to Oxford Spa, try your luck at the newly opened and highly touted All Star Sandwich Bar in Inman Square. Close enough from campus to walk on a warm day, but probably not the best idea for a quick and light lunch in between two classes, All Star is the brainchild of Chris Schlesinger, whose neighboring restaurant East Coast Grill has long been a local favorite.

Seating here is limited but service is quick, and don’t be mislead by the weekday lunch crowd lingering in the entrance, because most of them are waiting for takeout. The menu offers around thirty sandwich selections, ranging from the comfortingly simple lunch box style peanut butter and jelly ($2.75) to the curiosity piquing Da All Star Bomb a.k.a The Clogger ($14.50) which features brisket, tongue, house pastrami, chopped chicken liver, swiss cheese, and applewood smoked bacon with creole mustard on oversized pumpernickel.

For those in need of an ultra spicy fix, try the Atomic Meatloaf Meltdown ($8.75), a delicious grilled meatloaf sandwiched in between thick slices of sourdough with Monterey Jack cheese, red onion chutney, and powerfully amazing Inner Beauty hot sauce which will leave you thirsty for some cold beer, which they are happy to provide. The Texas Reuben ($8.75) was another tasty choice, made with smoked brisket, cumin seed coleslaw, Monterey cheese, and chipotle Russian dressing on dark rye. Be sure to chow down on all of it or bring a friend with a healthy appetite because it doesn’t taste nearly as good when it’s cold. For those who are condiment crazy, no need to hail down a waiter because at your table is relish, ketchup, mustard, A1 sauce and Heinz 57. And for a few extra quarters, you can also “hot rod yo sandwich,” so boasts the menu, with tomato ginger or red onion chutney, specialty relishes, cider slaw, or sauerkraut.

The Lunch Trio Special which gives you a choice of two or three pickings ($6.95; $9.95) among a half-sandwich, soup, salad, and chili sounds like the perfect solution when you are reluctant to commit yourself to only one sandwich, but disappointingly you don’t get a say in which half sandwich to pick. All Star also offers a few vegetarian options such as the egg salad, red pepper hummus, or the grilled vegetable sandwich. For dinnertime, the grill fires up for more grilled meat sandwiches such as pork chop with caramelized apples, chicken with black forest home, and all star burger creations. I would have to say that the only downside of a trip to All Star Sandwich Bar is noticing Punjabi Dhaba on your walk back and realizing it will have to wait until next time.

Rating: ***

All Star Sandwich Bar 1245 Cambridge Street (617-868-3065)Open for Lunch 11:00-2:30Open for Dinner 4:30-9:00 (weekday) and 4:30-10:00 (weekend)Closed Sunday and Monday

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